When I think of winter, I think of warm nights spent with friends and family, hashing out old stories, listening to music and watching movies, but, most importantly, sharing delicious, cozy meals with those I love.
I have a small, tightly knit family. My parents had me later in life, and with their age came expertise in many things, especially when it came to food. They taught me everything I know when it comes to cooking. Whenever I’m in the kitchen, my loved ones are with me, even if I’m not able to see them or hear them or feed them.
I know for some the holidays feel like nothing but a reminder of what we’ve lost. For me, it’s an annual reminder to make new memories with the family I have left. This will be my third Christmas without my father and uncle, two wizards in the kitchen who would be proud that I’m doing what I love: writing down my recipes for you all.
In the spirit of creating new memories, I am pleased to share a few of my favorite holiday side dishes for your winter feast.
CELERIAC MASH WITH BROWN BUTTER FRIED SAGE
Mashed potatoes are a treasured dish, and not only does everyone make them differently, they all swear by their own version. Well, I’m no different. This is my version, and I urge you to try it.
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
1 large celery root
2 pounds potatoes of choice
1 cup sour cream
8 tablespoons cold good butter, cut into 8 pats
12-20 fresh sage leaves
Freshly cracked black pepper
Kosher salt
Directions
Peel the potatoes and celeriac, then cut them into 1-inch cubes. Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. The waterline should come to 2 inches above the potatoes. Season the water with kosher salt and bring the pot to a boil. The celeriac will take less time to soften than the potatoes, so add it in once the water has come to a full boil. Boil the potatoes and celeriac together for 15-20 minutes (or until fork-tender), then drain. Return the veggies to the pot and place on the hot burner with the heat off. The residual heat will allow any excess water to evaporate.
Using a masher or a ricer, process until the consistency is smooth. Add the sour cream, one of the eight pats of butter, and salt and black pepper to taste. Combine thoroughly and set aside.
In a small frying pan, melt 5 tablespoons — or five pats — of the butter on medium heat. When the butter is fully melted and hot enough to fry, add in the sage leaves. If the butter is too hot, add a pat of cold butter to bring the temperature down and increase the frying time for the sage leaves. Once the sage is crispy, let the leaves drain on a paper towel and finish the brown butter, stirring constantly until the milk solids start to turn golden brown. Drizzle the browned butter onto the mash and finish with the fried sage leaves. Serve hot.
Tips for Success
Prepping the celery root: Celeriac is very lumpy with lots of little grooves that house dirt and small roots. I recommend using a paring knife for detailed cleaning.
Overworking the potatoes: It is very important to not overprocess potatoes, as they contain starch and will develop a gummy, glutinous texture.
Brown butter: Yes, it requires babysitting, but yes, it’s worth it. The most important thing is to not leave browning butter unattended, as it must be stirred constantly. The milk solids in the butter are the browned bits, and will burn easily. Keeping extra pats of cold butter on hand will help control the temperature if the pan gets too hot.
Where to Find
Celeriac: Celeriac, or celery root, is a root vegetable found in the produce section of your grocery store. A large celery root should be about the size of a softball, whereas the smaller roots look like baseballs.
MARINATED GREEN BEAN BEET SALAD
Green bean casserole is an untouchable staple in my household, but I am very pro-salad and wanted to explore an alternative. In the grand scheme of the holiday table, something needs to be fresh and green. (Bonus points if it’s cool in temperature to balance out all the hot dishes.) This marinated salad is the perfect make-ahead side dish with only a couple of last-minute steps.
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
Marination: at least 1 hour
Ingredients
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and blanched
1 pound beets, peeled and roasted
1 juicy orange, peeled
16 ounces goat cheese
2 shallots
¾ cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
¾ cup good olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
1 cup fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
⅓ cup nut of choice
Directions
Finely chop the shallots and parsley. Add to a lidded jar with the vinegar, thyme leaves, olive oil, Dijon and some salt and pepper. Shake the jar vigorously until the dressing is emulsified. Set aside. Shake the jar if the dressing settles.
Roast the beets. (Boiling until tender also works, but the beets will lack the depth of flavor achieved through roasting.) Peel the beets, cut them in half and roast them at 350℉ for one hour wrapped in foil with a little bit of olive oil and salt. After roasting, cut the beets into bite-size pieces (I like wedges) and add them to half of the marinade mixture.
After washing the green beans, trim off the woody ends and cut them in half on the bias. Blanch in boiling water for three minutes, then shock in ice water. Drain the beans and marinate in the rest of the dressing. This salad can marinate at room temperature if served the same day.
With a sharp knife, carefully cut out the orange sections. Squeeze the juice from the leftover rind over the beets and green beans for more flavor, and top with the orange wedges, goat cheese and nuts. Serve at room temperature. For presentation, I recommend using a large, lipped plate or shallow serving bowl.
Where to Find
Beets: Rainbow beets are usually found in the organic section of the grocery store. Plain red beets are equally delicious and are found next to the other root vegetables. I used a variety of colors for the beets and the oranges to add extra color to my spread.
Nuts: Nuts are top sellers this time of year and can be found in the dry goods or baking section of the grocery store. I used pistachios, but cashews, almonds or hazelnuts would work too.
STUFFING-STUFFED MUSHROOMS
Stuffed mushrooms and stuffing are two popular sides, so I’ve decided to cut corners and combine them into one simplified dish.
Prep time: 15-20 minutes
Cook time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
16-20 small cremini mushrooms
2 cups fresh bread crumbs (sourdough is my favorite)
1/2 onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary leaves
1 egg
2 ounces cheese of choice
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
Using a damp paper towel or kitchen cloth, wipe the mushrooms clean. Remove the stems from the mushrooms and chop finely. To make room for the stuffing, use a spoon to carefully dig out the gills, the dark interior of the mushroom. Discard the gills. Cut the gruyere into small cubes and set aside. Fontina, white cheddar or gouda would also work.
In a large oven-safe skillet, saute the onion in a small amount of butter until translucent, then add the minced garlic, chopped stems and rosemary. Saute for a minute more. Take the mixture off the heat and transfer to a bowl. Into the same bowl, break the bread into large crumbs, keeping the texture of the bread intact. Cutting the bread into small cubes also works. Combine the bread with the onion mixture by hand, then add the egg and combine further. The stuffing texture should be loose and crumbly but still stick together when squished in the hand. At this point, the mushrooms are ready to be stuffed.
Tightly pack a tablespoon of the mixture into a mushroom. Press a cube of cheese into the stuffing, then top with more packed stuffing. Repeat this process for all the mushrooms, then roast in the skillet for 20 minutes at 350℉.
Tips for success
Mushrooms: Do not wash mushrooms. They are sponge-like and will absorb water. Water-logged mushrooms become soggy and bland with a rubbery texture when cooked. Furthermore, small mushrooms are better for this dish because they contain less water than larger ones and will cook more evenly.
Button and cremini mushrooms are the same variety of mushroom, just at different maturity levels. Portobello mushrooms also belong to this family, a fungus called agaricus bisporus. Any mushroom from this family will work, but the cook time will need to be adjusted.
Readers, I look forward to sharing more recipes with you in the new year. For now I wish you good health, warm meals and happiness.
Winn is a home cook and Scarborough Fair attendee. She can be reached at @food_for_winners on Instagram or madisonwinncooks@gmail.com.
